From Wave To Become Friendship

lagi satu wakil

2010-02-01T23:52:00.001+08:00

tambah lagi satu....

2010-01-28T09:05:00.002+08:00

wakil aprs perak.... terima kasih...

paling ramai

2009-12-13T00:16:00.002+08:00

antara paling ramai pernah aku rekod kan

penyebaran bau.. wakakakakaaa

2009-10-29T02:59:00.001+08:00

tak sangka dapat gak orang jauh menghidu.... kuat antenna brader batu pahat ni hehehehe

aku nya setup setakat rooftop rumah flat tingkat 5 je....

Terasa ingin memburu lagi

2009-08-20T23:51:00.003+08:00

mmm lama tak update
rasa nak memburu balik.... menyambung hajat yg lepas tak kesampaian
kalau allahyarham sudirman "kalau pergi kuala kubu...tulis nama atas batu"
aku plak ingin mencuba tertulis nya callsign aku di logbook satellite ISS
menyambung balik benda2 yg lepas... interface and so on... semuanya separuh jalan

nantikan kemunculannya hehehehheeeee

Proud of you 9W2MDY

2009-04-19T23:37:00.004+08:00

uiview32 setup

2009-04-16T16:39:00.004+08:00

firstly... dowload the software http://ja1ogs.com/dl.htm

after finish install run the software and little bit setup
1-validation number is very important.. please register and you can get this number

2- enter the lat long your position find here.... http://www.getlatlon.com/

jom navizon

2009-02-18T15:48:00.005+08:00

I would like to introduce you to Navizon: http://www.navizon.com/
Navizon is a wireless positioning system that works a little bit like a GPS, only that it uses Cellular Towers and Wifi access points instead of satellites. In addition to being a wireless position system, Navizon offers cool features like the Directions, Buddy finder, Geotags and many more...

This software relies on a community of users who contribute data to the system (WiFi and Cellular towers) when they have a GPS device. And the cool thing is that we can earn money doing it with the Navizon reward system:

http://www.navizon.com/navizon_rewards.asp I'm already using it and you could make money too with it if you're interested. All you need is to install it on your phone and have Navizon connected to your GPS. Every Wifi access points that you pass, every cell tower that you log will mean money in your pocket. So if you have a phone that is compatible with this software, you should really check it out.

If you plan on registering, please do so by clicking on the link below:

http://my.navizon.com/Webapps/UserAdmin/register.aspx?referral_code=595B5D575B59

That way, I can also earn some referral points since I'm the one who introduced you to the system ;-)

Thanks

Radio Mobile + AGWPE

2009-02-09T00:20:00.003+08:00

Radio Mobile is a free and powerful tool for plotting RF patterns and predicting the performance of radio systems. Using freely available terrain elevation data it can produce grey scale, x-ray and rainbow colored virtual maps. One can also produce 3-D and stereoscopic views as well as flyby animations. Background images can be merged with scanned maps, satellite photos and Mapquest maps to produce accurate prediction plots. You can obtain your copy of Radio Mobile from the official website.

When I first began using Radio Mobile I had to spend a great deal of time with the documentation trying to figure out how everything worked. Once I became familiar with the software I thought that others might benefit from my experience and so this tutorial was born. This tutorial will walk you through obtaining and installing the software, obtaining elevation data and finally plotting simple RF plots. Once you become familiar with the software it becomes very easy to use and is a very powerful tool. I used Radio Mobile to plot coverage and design radio links for customers when I owned a wireless ISP. Radio Mobile was able to create plots that were as accurate as the plots from expensive commercial packages used by my hardware vendors.

Radio Mobile is under constant development so if it is missing a feature you want you may have to wait only a short time before it is added to the software. Please realize that I am only a user of the software, not a developer. Please direct any inquiries regarding the software to the author Roger Coudé.

MOBILE APRS WITH UI-VIEW32 AND THE KENWOOD D700

2009-01-17T00:43:00.004+08:00

For those wishing to use their laptop to do mobile APRS, here are some setup tips for UI-VIEW32.

(IMPORTANT NOTE: The first time you open a setup menu, you will be met with a help screen. Close it and open the same menu again. If you need the help later, open the setup menu and hit your "F1" key.)

First, go to "Setup" and "Station Setup" in UI-VIEW32. You will see the following screen:

Take note that you put in the proper data in all screens, and make the proper selections.

(1) In the "Callsign", box, put your callsign. If you run a base station, or other APRS station, select an SSID number for the end of your call. For Kenwood rigs, the "-7" is best, such as "9W2DIE-7". for more info of SSID's.

APRS SSID's

-0 Home Station, Home Station running IGate.
-1 Digipeater, Home Station running a Relay Digi, Wx Digipeater
-2 Digipeater [#2 or] on 70CM
-3 Digipeater [#3]
-4 HF to VHF Gateway
-5 IGate (Not home station)

-6 is for Operations via Satellite
-7 Kenwood D7 HH
-8 is for boats, sailboats and ships (maybe 802.11 in the future)
-9 is for Mobiles
-10 is for operation via The internet only
-11 is for APRStouch-tone users (and the occasional Balloons)
-12 Portable Units such as Laptops, Camp Sites etc.
-14 is for Truckers
-15 is for HF

(2) In the Lat & Lon boxes, just put your home data there. The "Locator" box will be filled in automaticly.

(3) In the "Unproto Address" box, the "APRS,WIDE1-1,WIDE2-2" will probably work best, unless you are in an area where everyone is using the old WIDE,WIDE system (shame on them for not upgrading!).

(4) In the "Beacon Comment, you can put what you want there. Some put "Going some place good" or "I don't know where I'm at", etc. (You can put you name and "mobile"...)

(5) In the "Beacon Interval" settings, the data pictured will work best for most situations. It mimicks the "Smart Beaconing" of some other fancy TNC's.

(6) For your "Symbols" you can select what best reflects your situation (or preference).

Next, to set up the GPS. With the Kenwood's, as long as your GPS is hooked up to the rig, the UI-VIEW32 software can "see" the GPS through the rig's TNC, so you don't have to hook your GPS to the laptop.

Go to "Setup", "GPS Setup" in UI-VIEW. The first screen you will see is this one:

The only thing required is to select the same comport as the Kenwood will be hooked to. If you want to, you can "Enable" the "Set PC Clock From GPS" but leave the "Offset hrs" blank. That way the computer will only "look" at the GPS clock minutes, and you won't have to worry about setting the hours for daylight saving time.

Now click "Shared Port Setup". You will get this screen:

Select the "D7/D700" and click OK.

If you hit your "F8" key on your laptop, you can toggle the GPS function on and off. (Just leave it on when you are in the mobile.) If you right click your own symbol on the map, and click "Track" the maps will move as you do.

Now to setting up the "Comms Setup" so the TNC will work.

FIRST! Set up your D700 for 144.390 in the left side. It does not matter what mode the TNC is in, UI-View32 will start it in KISS mode.

Go to "Setup", "Comms Setup" in UI-View32. This is the screen you will see:

Select 4800, None, 8, 1, and the proper COM Port. Select "KISS" in "Host mode".
Now click "Setup" and you will get this screen:

Select "D700" and click OK. DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING ELSE!

You will be back at the "Comms Setup" window, click OK.

Your radio should begin to setup, transmit a beacon, start receiving stations, which in turn should display in UI-View32.

Enjoy your mobile!

(NOTE: For mobile setups not using the D700 or D7, setup is very similar. Just select proper TNC and GPS settings.)

Hasil buruan pagi tadi..... NOAA-18

2008-12-07T19:02:00.002+08:00

heheheee nak kena buat antenna lain huhuhuuuu.....
pastu nak kena upgrade software la pulak.........
takpa sabar.....

Pemburu satelite

2008-12-01T12:29:00.004+08:00

Pada aku benda cukup baru first time monitor satelite
so malam tadi dapat monitor NOAA-18 di 137.100mhz bunyi agak kureng sikit pasal antenna tak kena nak kena buat antenna untuk WX (weather)
so ok laaa memang cukup teruja... credits to 9W2AZV

so hari ni tak sabar2 nak siapkan gak interface untuk decode balik apa yg data yg di hantar oleh satelite

so pada yg ada radio tu pastikan tidak menganggu freq uplink & downlink satelite (kena refer ngan guideline freq satelite)

kat sini freq yg aku tahu

1- NOAA-15 137.500Mhz
2-NOAA-17 137.620Mhz
3-NOAA-18 137.100Mhz
4-ARISS 145.825Mhz
5-NO-44 145.825Mhz

schedule for this week ARISS coming to my position
check it out 145.825mhz

Created by Satscape written by Scott Hather - http://www.satscape.co.uk

SATELLITE-DATE----- TIME--- S-AZ MAX EL-- DURATION E-AZ SUNLIT VISIBLE
ARISS [+] 01 DEC 2008 01:12:59 300 17 (AZ 235) 00:09:18 169 No No
ARISS [+] 01 DEC 2008 11:08:21 142 01 (AZ 127) 00:02:36 112 Yes No
ARISS [+] 01 DEC 2008 12:39:48 216 76 (AZ 290) 00:10:08 035 Yes No
ARISS [+] 01 DEC 2008 14:19:20 299 00 (AZ 309) 00:01:44 319 Yes No
ARISS [+] 01 DEC 2008 22:33:29 045 00 (AZ 051) 00:01:02 057 No No
ARISS [+] 02 DEC 2008 00:04:15 326 78 (AZ 061) 00:10:13 143 No No
ARISS [+] 02 DEC 2008 01:42:51 253 01 (AZ 234) 00:03:25 214 No No
ARISS [+] 02 DEC 2008 11:31:59 190 16 (AZ 126) 00:09:08 061 Yes No
ARISS [+] 02 DEC 2008 13:07:26 248 11 (AZ 307) 00:08:35 005 Yes No
ARISS [+] 02 DEC 2008 22:56:31 351 14 (AZ 054) 00:08:58 115 No No
ARISS [+] 03 DEC 2008 00:31:41 296 13 (AZ 234) 00:08:57 173 No No
ARISS [+] 03 DEC 2008 10:25:54 153 02 (AZ 127) 00:04:29 100 Yes No
ARISS [+] 03 DEC 2008 11:58:17 220 61 (AZ 303) 00:10:06 031 Yes No
ARISS [+] 03 DEC 2008 21:50:35 029 01 (AZ 051) 00:03:45 073 No No
ARISS [+] 03 DEC 2008 23:22:40 323 77 (AZ 233) 00:10:12 146 No No
ARISS [+] 04 DEC 2008 10:50:13 194 19 (AZ 126) 00:09:26 057 Yes No
ARISS [+] 04 DEC 2008 12:26:02 253 09 (AZ 307) 00:08:08 001 Yes No
ARISS [+] 04 DEC 2008 22:14:41 347 17 (AZ 054) 00:09:17 120 No No
ARISS [+] 04 DEC 2008 23:50:12 292 11 (AZ 234) 00:08:32 177 No No
ARISS [+] 05 DEC 2008 09:43:36 161 03 (AZ 127) 00:05:40 092 Yes No
ARISS [+] 05 DEC 2008 11:16:35 224 45 (AZ 304) 00:10:02 028 Yes No
ARISS [+] 05 DEC 2008 21:08:11 021 02 (AZ 052) 00:05:05 082 No No
ARISS [+] 05 DEC 2008 22:40:55 319 57 (AZ 234) 00:10:09 150 No No
ARISS [+] 06 DEC 2008 10:08:16 198 24 (AZ 126) 00:09:40 053 Yes No
ARISS [+] 06 DEC 2008 11:44:28 258 07 (AZ 307) 00:07:37 357 Yes No
ARISS [+] 06 DEC 2008 21:32:42 344 21 (AZ 054) 00:09:32 124 No No
ARISS [+] 06 DEC 2008 23:08:34 287 09 (AZ 234) 00:08:04 182 No No
ARISS [+] 07 DEC 2008 09:01:16 167 04 (AZ 126) 00:06:32 086 Yes No
ARISS [+] 07 DEC 2008 10:34:43 228 35 (AZ 305) 00:09:55 024 Yes No
ARISS [+] 07 DEC 2008 20:25:46 015 04 (AZ 052) 00:06:02 089 No No
ARISS [+] 07 DEC 2008 21:58:59 316 43 (AZ 235) 00:10:03 154 No No

aduh penat nak edit mende ni.............

Kawan Baru.... AE80groups

2008-11-12T17:05:00.005+08:00

heheheee tak pernah2 terlintas di hati nak join kelab kete... ye laaa kete buruk, born in 1985 kat mana nak cari geng ni... pegi kedai potong pun baru selangkah pagar kena tanya
kedai potong "apa kereta?"
aku jawab "ini la...." aku tunjuk kereta aku
kedai potong "ini tarak" loghat cina
dialog yg sukar di lupakan....
mmmmm teringin nak tukar lain.. malas nak buat hutang. ni pun ok ape, dah selesa dah selepas di beri nafas baru.. enjin ok, suspension ok, air-con ok (ni yg penting ni,ada harmonic). nak di jadikan cerita.. semalam kena langgar tgh parking.... adus!!! mana nak cari lampu kiri kecik panjang ni... dalam serabut ni pegi kerja pagi, tgh temenung dok main hp.. teringat ada satu mamat ni posting bumper.. rasanya ada save no dia. check punya check ada..... terus call.oooo mus namanya ingat dah. so call pegi buat appointment bila boleh jumpa sebab dia kata ada lampu kecik yg pecah tu.sms masuk petang semalam kata ada.. laju jer reply sms mintak alamat nak jumpa. haaaa alhamdullilah jumpa mus dan khai so dah dapat barang tu apa lagi cerita pasal keta laaa. sembang punya sembang last skali nak balik teringat, ni rasa nya ramai geng diorang ni.... join je la walaupun aku ni dah tua ( rasa aku la... kekekke ) so diorang pun bagi.. main ingat je.. nak tulis takde pen. "ae80" . so hari ni cari jumpa dan register... ok gak, ingat nak pupus dah kete ni... banyak cara nak mencantik kan atau menggilap keta yg lama ni. senang cerita contoh la apa model yg boleh masuk.bumper,lips,engine bay,interior macam2 laa.... ni nak kena beli tabung ayam ni.... bleh tahan gak rege nak mencantikkan benda yg antik ni.
so mana kawan2 yg minat atau yg dah ada kete ni jumpa di forum AE80 group http://www.ae80groups.proboards.com

APRS + UI-view

2008-11-07T11:50:00.003+08:00

Here are your registration numbers please keep a copy printout I send only 1 time this !!
For download software see http://ja1ogs.com/dl.htm

Callsign: 9W2LKB
Name : Zamri Ahmad
Selangor
Malaysia
Your Reg. No. for current versions of UI-View : 200xxxxxxxxxxxx
If you use UI-View to connect to the APRS servers on the Internet, you will need an APRS server validation number.
You input the validation number in the UI-View APRS Server Setup dialogue.
The validation number for 9W2LKB is xxxxx

advice from Mr Art Takahashi

Hi it me again a few stations in Asia ask me how and what is needed to setup a APRS Digipeater/Mobile/Portable station
So I created a new easy read webpage it explain all very simple basic
Have a look if you need more help again let me know, Im also welcome for any comment !!

Please do not use 144.390MHz this is only for APRS satellite communication data !!

For normal acces to view the new page see http://ja1ogs.com/digi.htm

A special note to access this page for the China Windows OS system users see the link below:
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~xq4t-tkhs/digi.htm

Be a real amateur radio station and switch on the APRS create Hamradio activity tell your friends !!
See if there any earthquake or a other troubles close to you so you can prepaire yourself.
All is free software maps ect, it works on old or new computers.
For a home setup you do not need a GPS.
The use for a GPS is only needed for a moving mobile aprs user in the car or portable.

Have a nice day

Name : Art.Takahashi

Callsign : JA1OGSUrl : http://ja1ogs.com/

location : Urawa-city

Country : Japan 336-0026

Skype-ID : ja1ogs

It's FUN & Easy to get on ATV!

2008-10-29T17:20:00.003+08:00

ATV, Where to Start

Download file ATVStart.pdf then print out and pass out to your ham club or friends. Amateur Television, ATV, is fun and easier than you might think to get on with all kinds of applications - scroll down.Besides sending and receiving live action color video between home ham stations on the 420 MHz band much in the way you are probably used to with voice on two meter FM, there is:

• Showing critical locations to local emergency service groups or back to the EOC during ARES or RACES Homeland Security drills or actual disasters, parades, races, and other public service events.

• Televising live or from tape your ham radio club meetings to those who could not make it in person.

• Seeing the edge of space from amateur balloons or rockets as high as 100,000 ft. • Getting a pilots view from a camera in a R/C model aircraft or real airplane.

• Seeing Space Shuttle and ISS video and audio if someone is repeating it from sat receiver or web site, and more.....http://www.hamtv.com/

seronok membaca benda ni... tapi tak paham pun concept perjalanan nya

bila.... nak sampai ke sini, untuk memperluaskan ilmu konon2 la... yg ada pun dah kena "bongok" rasa semakin penuh memori ni, kena delete yg dah tak pakai kot baru boleh defragmenter.dan tukar antivirus lain heheheee

SMKKKB re -union

2008-10-16T09:24:00.004+08:00

kenangan 1989~1993

gambar semasa berlangsung majlis klik disini

http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm204/9w2lkb/smkkkb/

dan disini http://www.photoblog.com/alumnismkkkb/2008/10

What is Amateur Radio?

2008-08-20T16:37:00.002+08:00

Amateur Radio is a radio service that anyone can get involved with. Amateur radio is also known as" Ham" radio, which you may have heard of it at one time or another. No one knows for sure why amateur radio operators are called hams, the original meaning has been lost over the years. Many theories exists as to the meaning of "ham", but nothing concrete. Amateur radio operators have been around since the beginning of radio, but the Amateur Radio Service did not come along until the advent of a licensing body.
During the beginning of radio, around the turn of the century, many basement experimenters built radio transmitters and receivers. These were called Spark Gap transmitters. They occupied a very wide bandwidth when transmitting. These stations would interfere with ship to shore communications on several occasions with their wide bandwidth transmissions. After years of complaints from these ship to shore stations, and among other concerns, it was decided that this new technology needed a structure and regulation. Hence the US FCC (Federal Communications Commission) was born, it was called something else at that time. Band segments were set aside for each specific service that was created and the "amateurs" enjoyed their own segments of the radio spectrum. Extending up into the HF, VHF and UHF bands, which at that time were considered "worthless”! Hams enjoy worldwide communications daily using homemade as well as commercially built equipment. Amateurs do not broadcast their transmissions, they have two-way communications with other amateurs. In fact, it is illegal for amateurs to broadcast information for the general public on the amateur radio bands or communicate with non-amateurs. Every amateur radio station has a call sign and in Malaysia the amateur radio license is issued by the Suruhanjaya Multimedia dan Komunikasi or Malaysian Communication and Multimedia Commission (MCMC). Other countries have their own licensing body, and just about every country in the world has an amateur radio service. Internationally, the requirements for obtaining a license are similar. A ham in China is required to take a test similar to that of a ham in the USA or any other country, although the licensing structure may vary with regards to license classes. All amateurs are restricted to the same bands or frequencies depending on his or her class of license. Just like all air traffic is controlled on the same frequencies around the world. It would be very difficult if you didn't know where to look for other amateurs!
Amateurs provide emergency communications when disaster strikes around the world. Floods, earthquakes, fires, tornadoes etc. have all called the active ham into public service. Providing emergency communications when ordinary communications are out of service. Thereby making the amateur radio service a vital source for communications when needed. Many lives have been saved over the years because of amateur radio, vital life saving information has been passed through amateur radio stations. It is a hobby and no monetary gains can be made from the use of amateur radio, which is strictly prohibited. Amateur radio is not CB radio. Citizens Band, or CB, is a completely different service altogether . One of the goals of amateur radio is to spread “international goodwill " around the world amongst other hams, it is kind of like a brotherhood of sorts. Countless friendships have grown through the means of amateur radio. Hams on one coast become friends with hams on the other, people that otherwise would have never known about each other have met while enjoying their hobby. Sure, there are times when someone will do or say something on the air that invokes an argument or rude behavior. But like any aspect of the human society, we learn to deal with it and make amends. For the most part, hams are ladies and gentlemen, and respect the wishes of others. Most hams will welcome you into their "roundtable" at anytime, provided you follow good operating practices. Many are very willing and eager to help a beginner with his or her station operation or getting licensed.
Have you recently received your amateur radio operators license and don't know what to do with it? Why not check out your local radio club and find an "Elmer”? Don't know what an "elmer" is? Then keep reading. Questions have been asked on some "insiders" information as to what some of the lingo which you hear on the bands means. So hopefully answers to some of your questions can be found here and clear up some of the "mysterious" words and phrases you will encounter while tuning to the ham frequencies. Most phrases and "codes" come from communicating via morse code. It is much faster to send a series of code letters or numbers than it is to spell each word out one at a time. Therefore, a group of codes was derived to make it easier on the Morse operator during his/her sending. I will not list them all as most are not relevant to your operating practices, but will list the most common ones heard on the bands today.
The meanings carry over to phone (SSB, AM, FM) as well as the digital modes . Try to refrain from using the "Q" codes on phone unless the band conditions are really poor. Why? Because if you are communicating with someone else who speaks your same language (which is most likely) there is no need to use codes as they will better understand you if you speak plain English (or whatever language you are speaking!).
An "elmer" is a kindly ham who helps newcomers get started in amateur radio. Many are happy to invite you into their "shacks" for a demonstration as to how an amateur radio station operates. Others enjoy helping with the testing procedures, and getting a station set up and on the air. Many Elmers can be found at your local ham radio club

Early Radio Amateur Activities in Malaya

2008-08-20T16:34:00.001+08:00

Amateur radio, the scientific hobby that brings together enthusiasts in many parts of the world, irrespective of race, creed, or social standing, was first introduced into Malaya in the late 1920s.
Amongst the early pioneers was R.E. Earle, VS1AB, who was active during 1928 to 1930. At that time, overseas transmissions were scarce and irregular. Also the late G.M. Salt, VS2AF, who commenced in 1930 from Glenmarie Estate, Batu Tiga, Selangor, and the late T.G. Laver, VS2AC, from Masai, Johor. The late A.N. Randall, VS3AB, operated from Johor Bahru. Reg. Hollis-Bee of the Public Works Department operated as VS2AG from Kuala Kangsar, Perak. During 1932, VS2AF and VS2AB operated successfully on 56 MHz over a distance of 10 miles.
E.C. Yates, VS1AD, was operating on the 20 and 40 meter bands in between 1920 and 1930 on Phone and CW (continuous wave). During 1930, he obtained permission from the Posts and Telegraphs to opera a broadcast service on 42 meters. Programs were broadcasted on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday evenings from 6 pm to 8 pm, and on Sunday mornings from 11 am to 1:30 pm. In 1932, he relayed the dance music from the Adelphi Roof Garden on the occasion of the Annual Ball of the Singapore Amateur Radio Society. These transmissions were well received throughout Malaya. In November 1933, the Posts and Telegraphs granted a license under the call of 2HI in the 49 meter band, and the broadcasts were concluded on the 42 meter band.
Jim Macintosh, VS2AA, came on the air during January 1934. Using only 5 watts, he established two-way working with five out of the six continents on 40 meters CW during his first month. The missing continent was South America, which is still a difficult continent to contact. Before the year was out, never using more than 20 watts, he had his WAC (Worked All Continents), and WBE (Worked all British Empire). The first WAC for Malaya was made by A.N. Randall, VS3AB.
In the early days, communication was restricted to CW. But today, Malaysian amateurs, perhaps better known as hams, can be heard in most evenings on 15 and 20 meter bands conversing on phone with other hams in Australia, north America, Europe, Africa, and occasionally with the extreme ends of the earth, eg. Virgin Islands.
For local contacts between amateurs in Malaysia, the 40 meter band is the most popular. And there has been a regular Sunday morning phone net for several years. It usually ets going at around 9:30 am, and sometimes lasts into the early afternoon.
Since the World War II, groups keen amateurs have formed societies to promote their interests, and lend a helping hand to the beginners. The Perak Radio Society and Selangor Radio Society were formed in 1947, whilst the Malayan Amateur Radio Transmitters’ Society was registered in 1952. The latter’s chief function being to act as a central bureau for both inward and outward QSL cards (confirmation of contact) between the Malayan stations and amateurs situated overseas.
The Selangor Radio Society was the result of the untiring efforts of the first president, Jim Macintosh, VS2AA, Law Joo Ghin, VS2AO, N.L. Narayan, VS2CN, N.A.K. Nair, Au Yong Siew Thong, and Rodgers Rowe.
The Singapore Amateur Radio Transmitting Society was founded in 1949. Amongst these who attended the inaugural meeting were Ted Yates, VS1AD, Reg Hollis-Bee, VS1AG, Mike de Cruz, VS1DU, Charles Salton, VS1DV, Ken de Souza, VS1CZ, and John Osborne, VS1BO.
The tendency had been for the Malaysian Amateur Radio Transmitters’ Society (MARTS) founded in 1952, to expand at the expense of the local societies with the result that the smaller societies have been wounded up. The service provided to members will then be always up to the standard envisaged by its founders.

licencing AA (apparatus assignment)

2008-08-20T16:19:00.002+08:00

The Malaysian Communications & Multimedia Commission (MCMC) is the license issuer and regulator of amateur radio service in Malaysia.There are only 2 classes of amateur radio license in Malaysia for individuals, namely Class A and Class B. Please refer to Band Plan page for operating privileges.9M4 prefix Class A licenses may also be applied for clubs, repeaters, special events, beacons, gateways, and other experimental use. The applicant of 9M4 prefix call sign must have a Class A license holder to supervise the operations. Please refer to Call Sign Prefixes page for respective 9M4 prefix allocations.

To apply for a Class B License

1-Be at least 14 years of age on the date of RAE.
2-Sit for RAE.
3-Receive result notification by postal mail 6~8 weeks after the examination date.
4-Obtain a set of forms for applying for Apparatus Assignment from MCMC.
5-Visit two Class A license holders to sign the Letter of Reference.
6-Visit a Commissioner for Oath to make Statutory Declaration Regarding Secrecy of Wireless Communications.
7-Deposit fees for Apparatus Assignment into MCMC's bank account:
7.1-RM60 admin fee (for each processing including future renewals)
7.2-RM24 annual fee (1 - 5 years)
8-Submit the following documents to MCMC:
8.1-Application for Apparatus Assignment
8.2-Documentary proof of citizenship or identification
8.3-A copy of RAE result notification letter
8.4-A letter of reference from two Class A license holders
8.5-A declaration of secrecy
8.6-Call sign request form
8.7-Original bank deposit slip (customer's copy) payable to MCMC
9-Receive Apparatus Assignment within a day or two upon submission.
10-Cleared to transmit on approved apparatus/radios and frequencies.

To apply for a Class A License

1-Obtained an Apparatus Assignment for Amateur Radio Class B for at least a year.
2-Be at least 18 years of age on the date of CW Test.
3-Sit for Morse Code Test.
4-Receive result notification by postal mail 6~8 weeks after the examination date.
5-Obtain a set of forms for applying for Apparatus Assignment from MCMC.
6-Visit two Class A license holders to sign the Letter of Reference.
7-Visit a Commissioner for Oath to make Statutory Declaration Regarding Secrecy of Wireless Communications.
8-Deposit fees for Apparatus Assignment into MCMC's bank account:
8.1-RM60 admin fee (for each processing including future renewals)
8.2RM36 annual fee (1 - 5 years)
9-Submit the following documents to MCMC:
9.1-Application for Apparatus Assignment
9.2-Documentary proof of citizenship or identification
9.3-A copy of RAE result notification letter
9.4-A letter of reference from two Class A license holders
9.5-A declaration of secrecy
9.6-Call sign request form
9.7-Original bank deposit slip (customer's copy) payable to MCMC
10-Receive Apparatus Assignment within a day or two upon submission.
11-Cleared to transmit on approved apparatus/radios and frequencies.

Reciprocal Operating Agreement

Foreign amateur radio operator may apply for Amateur Radio Apparatus Assignment under the reciprocal arrangement between their country and Malaysia. MCMC may issue an Apparatus Assignment to the foreign amateur radio operator if they meet all the requirements. The class of the Apparatus Assignment issued will be equivalent to the license class or assignment issued by their home country authority in their original home country.

List of countries which have reciprocal arrangement with Malaysia:

Thailand
Indonesia
Laos
Vietnam
Myanmar
India
China
Mongolia
United Kingdom
Germany
Switzerland
Finland
Czech Republic

The Apparatus Assignment will not be issued for a period of more than the validity of the home country license, or 1 year which ever is earlier.

Foreign amateur radio operator which came from country which has no reciprocal arrangement will be dealt on case by case basis. However, an introduction from a member of MARTS will be preferred.

Call Sign Prefixes

2008-08-20T16:07:00.002+08:00

Call Sign License Geographical Area

9M1 Reserved
9M2*** Class A Peninsular
9M3 Future allocation
9M4B** Amateur radio beacon Malaysia
9M4C** Amateur radio club Malaysia
9M4E** Experimental Malaysia
9M4G** Amateur radio gateway Malaysia
9M4R** Amateur radio repeater Malaysia
9M4S** Special event Malaysia
9M5 Future allocation
9M6*** Class A Sabah
9M7 Future allocation
9M8*** Class A Sarawak
9M9 Future allocation
9W2*** Class B Peninsular
9W3 Future allocation
9W4 Future allocation
9W5 Future allocation
9W6*** Class B Sabah
9W7 Future allocation
9W8*** Class B Sarawak
9W9 Future allocation

RECIPROCAL CALL SIGNS
Peninsular:
Class A - 9M2/home country call sign
Class B - 9W2/home country call sign

Sabah:
Class A - 9M6/home country call sign
Class B - 9W6/home country call sign

Sarawak:
Class A - 9M8/home country call sign
Class B - 9W8/home country call sign

e-Payment SKMM

2008-08-08T09:10:00.002+08:00

ePayment merupakan kemudahan yang disediakan oleh Suruhanjaya Komunikasi dan Multimedia Malaysia (“SKMM”) untuk membolehkan pelanggan membuat bayaran kepada SKMM secara elektronik. Jenis bayaran yang boleh dibuat pada masa kini adalah:

Bayaran fi pemprosesan permohonan untuk penguntukan radas;

Bayaran fi penguntukan radas;

Bayaran fi pembaharuan penguntukan radas.

Waktu untuk membuat pembayaran adalah dari pukul 7 pagi hingga 11 malam setiap hari. Sila cetak resit yang dipaparkan selepas transaksi selesai untuk rujukan. ePayment kini memberi kemudahan bayaran secara on-line melalui kemudahan MEPS FPX dan kad kredit MasterCard dan Visa.

layari https://epayment.skmm.gov.my/epay/search

WIFI focal point

2008-07-30T11:42:00.002+08:00

Two on 10

2008-07-29T14:34:00.009+08:00

By Al Alvareztorres, AA1DO

Two on 10
Hankerin’ for more performance on 10 meters? Wanna greet the
upcoming sunspot peak with gusto? This home-brew two-element beam is the perfect introduction to rolling your own gain antenna.

Living in a condo has many advantages, none of which is being able to mount a tribander on a 60-foot tower. So
I make do with a long, thin random wire that works nicely as long as the New England wind, snow and ice
don’t conspire to give my hamming a holiday (which happens more often than I’d like). And although it’s somewhat directional on the higher bands, I haven’t figured out how to rotate 200 feet
of wire without the neighbors becoming suspicious. One answer is to operate mobile. A bumper-mounted vertical is fine for casual operation, but it leaves a lot to be desired when mountaintopping
for rare DX. With the solar maximum just around the corner, I decided that a portable 10-meter beam was necessary.
The beam had to fit in the trunk of my Subaru (limiting the largest component to about four feet in length) and had to be easy to assemble and erect on site by one person. In this article I’ll describe the antenna and provide some construction tips that may help you avoid some pitfalls if you take on this worthwhile project.

The Boom
From past experience I know that TV masts make good booms for smaller antennas. They’re lightweight, strong and
readily available at most RadioShack and home stores. The lightduty stuff is plenty strong and comes in five-foot lengths. That was my starting point. At 28.4 MHz, for an antenna made of tubing and not supported at the ends, a half wavelength is 491.8 divided by 28.4 MHz, or 17.3 feet. To accommodate my “Subaru factor,” four feet divided by 17.3 feet produces a boom length of 0.116 wavelength, a size that gives a nice gain and a feed-point impedance that can be easily matched to your coax line. The TV mast (with the crimped end lopped off) fits in my trunk and allows two elements to be mounted 4 feet apart and fed with RG-58 coax. So far so good. I would be building a two-element beam. Now, how to mount the elements to the boom and the boom to the mast (another 5-foot TV mast section)? In the past I had used a U-bolt and clamp arrangement, but this technique requires care in keeping the elements parallel to each other and to the ground. This is fine for permanent installations, but not something to be bothered with while operating portable. I decided on right-angle pieces permanently mounted to the boom (see Figure 1). I used 1/2-inch 1 × 2 aluminum angle scrap because it “looked about right.” Your local hardware store has aluminum angle in various dimensions and lengths. I cut six, 3-inch pieces of angle to make the U-bolt mounting brackets— two to hold each element and two to hold the mast. Drilling the two holes in the angle’s smaller dimension—the part that attaches them to the boom—isn’t critical as long as you drill the holes on the boom the same distance apart. The angles will be permanently mounted to the boom using 2-inch bolts, nuts and lock washers. When you mount them, be careful not to crush the tubing. It’s not terribly strong, but it is lightweight. We’re going for portability here! The holes in the larger dimensions should be tailored to allow the mounting of the 11/4-inch U-bolts for the elements and the 13/4-inch U-bolts for the mast. Because the element mounts must be as parallel as possible and the boom mount must be at right angles to them for maximum efficiency (and so your antenna doesn’t look like it’s under the influence), make the boom holes with a drill press if possible.

Now for the Elements
Most beam antennas are made with aluminum tubing because it’s strong, lightweight and available in sizes that “telescope” into each other. The telescoping feature is important. It helps in transportation and makes tuning the antenna a snap. The beam’s driven element should be 17.3 feet. The length of a reflector for a two-element Yagi with 0.116-wavelength element spacing should be 18 feet 1/2-inches. I needed 35 feet of tubing (plus some to fit inside each telescoping joint for support). Because the tubing comes in 8-foot lengths, this worked out to five lengths of assorted sizes. The three telescoping sizes available at my local hardware store were 1 inch, 7/8 inch and 3/4 inch—perfect! Because the 1-inch section was going to be the center part of the two elements, I picked up U-bolts and nuts while I was there. You’ll also need eight hose clamps sized to fit your tubing. This is how the material was cut up. One 1-inch tube was cut in half, yielding two four-foot lengths. The two 7/8-inch tubes

Figure 1—Two pieces of angle aluminum are attached to the boom with two nuts, bolts and lock washers. Your drilling must be accurate, so use a drill press if possible. In addition to drilling the boom holes, you’ll need to drill four holes in each angle piece: two for accepting the boom-mounting nuts and two for the U bolts that will hold the element.

were cut in half to yield four four-foot lengths. One 3/4-inch tube was cut in half to yield two four-foot lengths. From the remaining 3/4-inch tube I cut off an 8-inch piece (for later use in the gamma match) and cut the remaining length in half to yield two lengths a little over 3.5 feet each. I then took the 1-inch tube and cut a slot in each end to a length of about 11/2 inches. Pushing the tube endwise into a band saw makes a really nice double-slot arrangement. I did the same at one end of each 7/8-inch tube. When the elements are assembled, hose clamps will pinch the slots closed and keep
the element sections in place (see Figure 3).

Figure 3—Use hose clamps to compress the slotted ends of the telescoping elements and keep everything in place. Marking the exact positions of the sliding tubes makes it much easier to assemble the antenna in the field

Slappin’ Together Time
In the garage I erected a 3-foot tripod. I then cut a small piece off the un-swaged end of the second five-foot TV mast (so it would fit in the trunk) and installed it into the tripod. I mounted the boom on the mast with U-bolts and clamps and attached the two 1-inch tube sections to each end of the boom with U-bolts and centered them for balance. I then slid the unslotted ends of the four 7/8-inch tubes into the ends of the 1-inch tubes, holding them in place with hose clamps. I inserted unslotted ends of the four remaining tube sections in place (using the two shorter 3/4-inch tubes
on the driven element). You won’t believe how big a 10-meter beam seems when it’s inside a garage!

Figure 4—Making your own gamma match is easier than you think. Construct the variable capacitor element by sliding a 5-inch piece of 1/2-inch diameter plastic tubing over a 24-inch piece of 1/2-inch diameter aluminum rod (A). Then, slide the plastic-sleeved end of the rod into a 55/16-inch long, 3/4-inch diameter aluminum tube and attach the entire assembly to the driven element (near the boom) using one plastic insulator and one conductive strap as shown (B). Note that the assembly must be separated from the driven element by 4 inches, center-to-center.

Figure 5—The finished gamma match mounted and ready for action.

Some Last Element Details
I drilled a hole at the center of the driven element and installed a bolt to attach the shield of the coax. I drew a ring around both 1-inch tubes with permanent markers to show the exact center for easy assembly. I used black when marking the driven element and red on the reflector. That way, in the field I wouldn’t have to stop to figure out what was what (that’s also why I cut slots into only one end of some of the element sections).

Feeding the Antenna
As you may have noticed, this antenna uses “plumber’s delight” construction. The driven element isn’t split into two legs like a conventional dipole. In this case, the driven element is one piece, and everything is shorted to the boom, to the mast and to ground. To top it off, the whole mess is fed with unbalanced coax. So, how does it work? Like magic! And the magic words are gamma match. There are actually several ways to feed a plumber’s delight antenna, but the gamma match is probably the simplest. How a gamma match works is beyond the scope of this article. In short, the braid of the coax is connected to the center of the driven element (since this is where the voltage null occurs in a
half-wave conductor). The center conductor of the coax is connected to the same driven element through a capacitor some distance away from the center. In the old days we used tuning capacitors from discarded AM radios. Tuning caps are as scarce as hen’s teeth nowadays, so I decided to try a technique I’d come across in the 1974 ARRL Antenna Book—incorporating the capacitor into the structure of the gamma match.

The shield braid of your coaxial cable attaches to the driven element using a nut, bolt and solder lug. The center conductor, however, must attach to the end of the gamma match capacitor, as shown here.

Bill of Materials

(2) 5-foot light-duty TV mast
(1) 1-inch x 8-foot aluminum tube
(2) 7/8-inch x 8-foot aluminum tube
(2) 3/4-inch x 8-foot aluminum tube
(1) 1/2-inch x 4-foot aluminum rod
(1) 1-foot section of clear vinyl tubing
(1) 2-foot aluminum angle
(2) 13/4-inch U-bolts
(4) 11/4-inch U-bolts
(8) Hose clamps to fit on 1-inch tubing
(6) 2-inch bolts & hardware
(2) 11/2-inch bolts & hardware
(4) 1/2-inch bolts & hardware
(1) 3-foot tripod
(3) 1-foot metal tent pegs

Building the Gamma Match
I took the 8-inch piece of 3/4-inch tubing that I had set aside before and cut it to 55/16 inches. I cut a piece of 5/8-inch plastic tubing to a length of 5 inches and cut a 1/2-inch aluminum rod (tubing will work) to 24 inches. Sliding the plastic tubing onto the 1/2-inch rod until their ends were flush, I now slid this assembly into the 55/16-inch tube until 1/2 inch of the plastic tube was left exposed (see Figures 4 and 5). I now had a capacitor! I drilled a hole near the end of the 55/16-inch tube and installed a small bolt for the center conductor of the coax. This assembly was mounted to the driven element so that the larger end (the one with the bolt) was directly under the center of the element and the two tubes were four inches apart center-to-center. The gamma match is held on by an insulated strap at the end closer to the center of the driven element and by a conductive aluminum strap at the other end. The locations of the straps aren’t critical at this point. The straps themselves can be made of any sturdy insulating and conducting materials. I used flat plastic stock and flat aluminum stock (1 inch by 1/16 inch worked fine) held in place by copper clamps (designed to hold copper pipes to a wall). These clamps come in all sizes, are easily bent to the proper size, already have holes in them for attaching to the straps and are inexpensive. Mechanically, everything looked good! But would it work?

Tuning the Antenna
I was fortunate that it was a beautiful summer day and that I had my wife, Donna, AA1DQ, to help me. I disassembled the monster in the garage and reassembled it on the lawn. Everything went together nicely in about 15 minutes. I attached the braid of the coax to the driven element and the center conductor to the gamma match. The fact that it was only four feet off the ground would have little affect on the tuning, although the overall performance would be affected by the high angle of radiation. Leaving the hose clamps over the element slots loose, I adjusted the driven element length to about 17 feet and the reflector to about 18 feet 1/2 inch. I would make the ajustments while Donna, visible through the shack window, keyed the transmitter and recorded the SWR readings. It goes without saying that visual (or some other positive) contact is imperative for safety. She could see that I was clear of the antenna before keying the transmitter. I find that it’s best to keep a written record when tuning an antenna (even if it’s only a dipole) so that I know where I am and which way I’m going. I make a chart with frequency on the Y axis and antenna length on the X axis. I then enter the lowest SWR point (resonance) at the appropriate X-Y position. As I change the length I can easily see what’s happening. If you find that the SWR at your chosen frequency is unacceptable, begin adjusting the gamma match by sliding the center bar in or out. If you can’t achieve a match, slide the entire matching section toward or away from the center of the driven element. As a last resort, adjust the driven element length. This will also have an effect. Remember to keep records. Otherwise you may get your adjustments all out of whack and won’t know where you are. When you’re done, tighten the hardware on the gamma match, as it will not be moved again. I was lucky. After only a few adjustments I obtained a 1:1 match at any chosen frequency (28.0 to 28.5 MHz). A match of 1.3:1 was attainable beyond these frequencies (up to 28.6 MHz). Your mileage may vary. I was overjoyed. The beam showed very good side rejection and a respectable front-to-back ratio. I marked the element sections at their contact points with a ring using the same permanent markers. When erecting the system I could simply slide the sections to the rings and tighten the hose clamps. There was nothing left to do but try it out on Beseck Mountain. Along the way I got some foot-long metal tent pegs to hold the tripod steady.

The Verdict
The antenna has been used several times mountaintopping and contesting. It performs well and can be erected by one person in about 15 minutes. It was well worth the effort. I have since gotten another section of mast and, with two people, it can easily be put up at 10 feet. I haven’t experimented with the reflector length yet to see the
effect on the gain and the front-to-back ratio. As they say, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!”

QST magazine April 1999

S60 phone Code

2008-07-13T16:53:00.002+08:00

The codes aren't published officially by Nokia, anywhere I've seen or read, and yet they have been covered by many sites and still frequently asked for by users everywhere. A new year seemed like a good time to review these useful codes. Use these codes at your own risk.

*#06# - IMEI (serial number).Structure of the IMEI:XXXXXX (TAC) XX (FAC) XXXXXX (SNR) X (SP)
TAC = Type approval code
FAC = Final assembly code
SNR = Serial number
SP = Spare

*#0000# - Phone model, Firmware version and date

*#7370# or *#res0# - Full phone format, wipes everything clean. Default security code 12345 until changed by the user.

*#7780# - Phone reset, clears settings without deleting most data. Default security code 12345 until changed by the user.

*#7370925538# or *#res0wallet# - Deletes everything in the Wallet, in case of forgotten password.

*#92702689# or *#war0anty# - Lifetime timer, doesn't work on some older S60 devices and with older Nokias activated additional menus which has since been disabled or removed from the consumer firmware, now requiring a special Field Test firmware.

*#2820# or *#bta0# - Displays the device's Bluetooth MAC address.

*#62209526# or *#mac0wlan# - Displays the device's WLAN MAC address.
[Green]+[def3]+[*+] - Fail-safe reformat, use this as a last resort if the regular format codes do not work or if the phone won't completely boot normally.

mega eyeball morib picture

2008-07-07T15:47:00.005+08:00

dan lagi gambar morib, thanks to 9W2YYB

http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn239/9w2yyb/Mega%20Eyeball%20Morib/?start=all&special_track=album_paginate_top_view_all

Morib eyeball road

2008-07-01T16:51:00.002+08:00

CW trainer thanks to 9W2AUR

2008-06-10T10:50:00.004+08:00

gambar semua eyeball 9W2DUA

2008-06-09T10:50:00.000+08:00

9W2DUA part2

2008-06-04T14:53:00.004+08:00

siapa yg tak kenal pak dua.. ni gambar nya yg tengah ambik gambar tu. terima kasih di ucapkan kerana satu rombongan secara tak langsung di terajui oleh 9W2MDY,9W2GTI,9W2LKB,9W2SZR,
9W2MZL,9W2BDZ,9W2MSG,9W2JIZ,SWAL AZMAN,9W2CYN dan 9W2KLG. melawat ketempat 9W2DUA.dan terima kasih juga diucapkan kepada rakan2 yg guide ke lokasi, terutama 9M2NNL.
kalau di kurniakan tuhan insya allah pada 7/6/08 akan diadakan lawatan susulan bersama anjuran astra kawasan tgh.lihat web astra tgh untuk selanjutnya dan terkini

beberapa minit sebelum geng taiping beransur pulang diganti pula dgn geng kwsn tengah

Gambar kenangan 9W2DUA

2008-06-04T13:26:00.003+08:00

gambar sekitar 2.00am ~ 4.00am

yg pegang torch light ketua forensik
yg tgh tu tok bomoh siasatan bhgn alam maya

penggemar barang antik

2008-05-27T16:52:00.002+08:00

hehehe.... yang project ni boleh katakan succesfull
tx = ok
rx = ok
repeater = ??
total kurang lebih 20 biji

ni satu lagi pending.... tak tau sampai bila
tgh dok surfing dari mana asal punca....
until now masih belum jumpa salasilah pnca kejadian....

standard PTT diagram

2008-05-26T11:28:00.002+08:00

Desktop charger FT-60R

2008-05-16T15:31:00.002+08:00

ni kira dah abih keje la ni...
merayap2 jumpa plak material ni (teflon) cantik ..tebal plak tu
apalagi libas la dgn mesin jadi la bentuk cam ni

cari spring plate atau aku guna thickness gauge tebal 0.3mm.tebuk lubang sikit bengkokkan hujungnya

pastu dah stand kan HT aku yang separuh nyawa... terlajak kangkang huhuhu....

depan nya trim sikit senang nak guna keypad.
dah boleh TX sambil charge.......

homebrew corner

2008-05-15T14:37:00.002+08:00

Today i found this web from SV1BSX. this blog have their own style
check it out
http://www.qsl.net/sv1bsx/homebrew.html

kreativiti

2008-05-05T08:31:00.003+08:00

aku pun tak tau nak namakan nya ape... tapi macam motor pantai la...
campuran dari
tayar / sportrim kancil
cover depan VS125
handle yamaha lagenda
seat RXZ
enjin yamaha autolube (ni je yg tak panas...)

kalau ada yg teringin anda boleh memilikinya
harga boleh bincang......

my powerful antenna

2008-04-29T08:37:00.004+08:00

ni antenna homebrew aku yg power
dari shah alam 145.550 kekuatan high power iC220H SWR 1.2 sampai kawasan highway plus Pagoh (lebih kurang 200km straight line) dgn station mobile yg kekuatan 5w
my signal report for station mobile is R4 S3

average my record is from shah alam
timur boleh sampai temerloh
barat boleh ke permatang Siantar
utara boleh ke slim river
selatan boleh ke pagoh
barat laut boleh kuala selangor / tanjung karang
barat daya port dickson

wire merah ni aku gantikan dengan welding rod satu batang welding rod 1mtr boleh dibahagi dua. cari cover CD atau VCD yg dah tak pakai untuk "maintain" 3 inch jarak antara welding rod yg telah dibentuk :- kalau boleh ikut jarak setepat yg boleh untuk memudah adjustment SWR .wire biru ni aku pakai wire biasa yg orang buat wiring rumah

cari la apa bahan bukan penebat untuk menggantikan plastik putih ni janji dia boleh maintain spacing dan ketahanan supaya tidak mudah pecah

cari batang pancing yg teleskopik sepanjang antenna dalam 6mtr setelah diatur, kebiasaannya batang pancing ni macam buluh... tu la, ketahanan nya tak lama.kalau dapat cari carbon fibre mmg cantik

balun - gulungkan wire RG58 kepada 8 pusingan yg dililit pada pvc 1inch
pastikan balun berada di bawah berdekatan antenna

jenuh aku nak cantik dan besarkan kan diagram ni. korang tgk la kat sini (aku tiru dari sini la )http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.amesbury/M3FVB/8db%20collinear.htm

RS232 DB9 vs DB25

2008-04-28T10:11:00.003+08:00

RS232 DB9 pinout

RS232 DB25 pinout

kenangan di kampung

2008-04-25T11:27:00.001+08:00

seronoknya ada di kampung

Tait Cable

2008-04-25T08:07:00.002+08:00

Huh! baru malam tadi berjaya membuat cable interface..... pening kepala. kalau takde orang desak, tak siap la jawab nye. ni kali yg ke 5 mencuba solder bukak solder bukak.... baru berjaya mengeluarkan tanda "-UU" alhamdullilah..

How capacitance works

2008-04-24T14:44:00.004+08:00

Image: Capacitance

An electrical property of long cables Plates from inside a capacitance box, made from sheets of tinfoil interleaved with waxed paper and sealed in paraffin wax. This example is approximately 40 centimetres wide. Capacitors store an electric charge. When a voltage is applied across a capacitor, charge builds up on the plates until the voltage across the plates equals the voltage applied.

The circuit diagram for a capacitor. The two vertical bars represent the conductors and the space between them represents the dielectric.

A capacitor (also known as a condenser) usually consists of two conductors separated by an insulator, the dielectric. In the case of a telegraph cable, the insulation forms a dielectric between the cable and the sea water outside and the cable itself stores a charge. Over a long stretch a cable may have significant capacitance, which will slow down the speed with which signals can be transmitted.

When a current is applied to a line with capacitance and resistance, it takes time for the line to charge up. The longer the line, the greater its capacitance and the longer it takes to charge up. This is known as the CR time constant. This rate of charge slows down the speed at which each morse element can be transmitted.

In an ideal line with virtually no capacitance or resistance (eg a very short one) the output to a siphon recorder should look like this:

But the CR time constant slows down the rate of change from one signal to another, resulting in an output like this:

Learn Morse Code in One Minute

2008-04-23T17:30:00.001+08:00

This is a code listening tool. Print it on your printer.Place your pencil where it says START and listen to morse code.Move down and to the right every time you hear a DIT (a dot).Move down and to the left every time you hear a DAH (a dash).Here's an example: You hear DAH DIT DIT which is a dash then dot then dot.You start at START and hear a DAH then move down and left to the T and then you hear a DIT so you move down and RIGHT to the N and then you hear another DIT so you move DOWN and RIGHT again and land on the DYou then write down the letter D on your code copy paper and jump back to START waiting for your next letter. The key to learning the code is hearing it and comprehending it while you hear it.The only way to get there is to practice 10 minutes a day. Listen to code tapes or computer practice code while tracing out this chart and you will find yourself writing down the letters in no time at all without the aid of the chart. The chart brings repetition together with recognition, which you don't get from any other type of code practice aid. HEAR slow morse code This code speed is slow enough to follow the chart above.HEAR morse code at the speed that the FCC test is playedThis code speed is too fast to run down the chart so only practice with slow code until you know the letters without the aid of the chart.And the character to emphasize that there she was, she was walking down the street, is :do-wah-diddy-diddy-dum-diddy-do

ANTENNAS FOR HAM TRANSMITTERS

2007-10-22T05:02:00.000+08:00

Antenna is the means by which a wireless operator puts his signal into the space and also through which he picks up the signals of the stations with which he wants to communicate. Hence after having a good Receiver and a Transmitter (or Transceiver), the next important item one should have to set up a ham radio station is a good antenna. The radio frequency power that is generated in the transmitter should be radiated in the form of electro magnetic waves. It is the job of the antenna to convert the RF power into radio waves and radiate them into the desired direction for effective communication. For this purpose, the antenna should be located well above the ground and it should be kept away from any tall buildings, trees, electrical power conductors, telephone and telegraph wires and other metal objects that will absorb the energy. The antenna should be erected as high as possible for the best results.
Antennas has reciprocity in that a good transmitting antenna will also work as a good receiving antenna. So if an amateur takes proper care and bestow attention in installing a good antenna, it will pay him rich dividends. Otherwise, however sophisticated may be the transmitting system, it will not be possible to get satisfactory performance. On the other hand, by using am efficient antenna system, best result can be obtained from even a home brew QRP transmitter.
The transmitter that generates the RF power is located in the shack and the antenna is erected high up in the air. To transfer the RF energy from the transmitter to the antenna, a transmission line is used. It links the transmitter (generator of RF) to the antenna (load). Through ordinary plastic wires will do the job, there will be the energy loss and the efficiency will be less and hence it is not suitable for use as transmission line, especially with QRP transmitter. The output stage of the transmitter has certain impedance as also the antenna. Maximum transfer of energy from a source to the load will take place only when the impedance is matched. It is important that the out put impedance of the transmitter should match the input impedance of the antenna. Generally, a co-axial is used by amateurs which offer maximum efficiency and minimum loss of energy. RG-58/U is small coaxial and RG-8/U is medium and impedance is 53.5 Ohms and 52 Ohms respectively. RG-59/U is small co-axial cable and impedance is 73 Ohms.
Other stations will judge the performance of an amateur station from the strength of the signal they hear. Remember that antenna is the part that makes all the difference to an amateur's signal, a weak one or a blasting 59+.

HORIZONTAL DIPOLE

Dipole is a simple antenna, easy to construct. It is widely used by amateurs and it gives satisfactory results in HF Bands. It requires only two points to hook it up. The hight should be about 30 to 35 feet above the ground, or as high as possible. Dipole is considered to be a fundamental antenna based on which more complex types of antennas are designed. It is also called a reference antenna. Most amateurs would be used it at one time or another in their ham career.
The overall length of the dipole is half the wavelength of the frequency for it is used. The length in feet can be calculated by using the formula 468/f MHz. It is cut into two halves and an insulator is used in the center. The radiation pattern of a dipole is like the figure '8'. The radiation is maximum in the broadside of the axis and least in the axis line. The impedance of the dipole is 70 Ohms and a coaxial cable with the impedance of 73 Ohms like RG-59/U is used to match it. Rightly, the dipole can be called the common man's antenna due to its many advantages, like low cost, simple construction, ease of transport, satisfactory results etc. The materials for the dipole are easily obtained and inexpensive. Dipole can be used for local as well a DX working.
In an article on DXpedition, the author has paid the following compliments to the dipole antenna.
"All things considered, dipoles are hard to beat. They pack so light, they will install in almost any tree; in a pinch you can even hang them from your balcony. For 160 through 40 meter, they are almost mandatory. On the other bands, dipoles are pretty effective, especially installed over 30 feet hight"
For the time and money an amateur spends on a dipole, it certainly gives best results and good value for money.

INVERTED V

This antenna is a variation of dipole in which the center position is raised to a high point than the ends and hence only one support is required. The ends are to be kept about 10 feet above the ground. The length is little shorter than the dipole. The formula for finding the length of inverted V in feet is 464/f MHz. The angle at the center between the two halves should be between 90 and 120 degree to get best results.
The impedance of inverted V is lower than that of the dipole, ie 50 Ohms. Therefore RG-58/U or RG-8/U co-axial cable is used for the transmission line. Inverted V is a popular and effective antenna and amateurs use it for 20, 40 and 80 meter working.

VERTICAL ANTENNA

if one has no space to put up a dipole or inverted V antenna, don't lose heart. This problem has been faced many other hams too. Perhaps it may be possible to go up. So one can try a vertical antenna.
In a vertical antenna the radiating part is quarter wave length and is called the radiator. Copper wire or aluminium tubing can be used for radiator. There are two types of ground vertical and ground plane vertical. For this, the quarter wave length radials are connected to the base and buried in the ground. A ground plane vertical uses an artificial metallic ground usually four rods or wires perpendicular to the antenna.
The radiation resistance of ground plane vertical varies with the diameter of the vertical element. For transmission line a 50 Ohms or 75 Ohms co-axial cable can be used.
The vertical antenna is omni-directional. It radiates or picks up RF energy equally well in/from all direction. This property offers an advantage in DX and contest working. Vertical antenna can be used to monitor even week DX signals and then one can change over to any directional antenna and work that station. Because of its low angle of radiation the signals reach many miles away due to skip propagation. So vertical antenna is better suited for DX working. Hams use it for 80 and 40 meter working.
Multi band vertical can be constructed wherein the vertical section will be quarter wave length at the lowest frequency. For best results, the vertical antenna should be erected as high as possible and far away from metallic objects and tall buildings and trees.

GERMAN QUAD ANTENNA

Most city dwellers face the problem of limited space for putting up an antenna of their choice. But if one is lucky and owns a couple of acres of land in a quiet place and the neighbours are co-operative, one can try the 'GERMAN Quad Antenna' designed by a German ham DL3ISA. It is reported that it works well on six bands 80, 40, 20, 15, 10 and even on 2 meters.
The construction is simple and straight forward. Take 83 meters of wire and mount it in the form of a big quad about 30 feet above the ground in a horizontal position. Each side will have a length 20.7 meters. For feed line, use a 75 Ohms co-axial cable. Antenna wire is 2.5 mm soft drawn copper wire. The four preferred directions are the extensions of the quad's diagonals. The ground serves as the reflector for 80 and 30 meters working.
The antenna offers a gain of 6 DB over a dipole mounted at the same hight. On 80 meter, it has a high angle of radiation and distance of 600 miles has been covered. On 40 metres, the radiation pattern is at a lower angle than 80 meters and it has no directivity.
If one has enough space and time he can try this multi-band antenna and work all the six bands and it has no directivity.

40 METER LOOP ANTENNA

If one is interested mostly only on 40 meter working, he can think of a loop antenna. It is simple and at the same time very effective. For best results, it should be made as square as possible. It should not be made more rectangular as the efficiency will suffer. The overall length of the antenna in feet can be found out by the formula 1005/f MHz. For a resonant frequency of 7.05 MHz the total length of the wire will be 142 feet 6 inches. For antenna wire 16 or 14 SWG wire can be used. Use 75 Ohms co-axial cable for the transmission line. The antenna should be kept at a hight of about 6 feet from the ground level.
If vertical polarisation is desired, feed the loop in the center of the vertical sides. This will give low angle radiation. If one desires horizontal polarisation, feed either to the horizontal sides.
The directivity of the loop antenna is broadside from the loop. So the antenna may be hung in such a way for maximum direction. This loop antenna has 2 DB gain over the dipole. It works well on 20 and 15 meter also with compromising results. For an experimenter, it is an antenna worth giving a trial.

BEAM (YAGI) ANTENNA
In a beam antenna, two or more dipole elements are used, so the radiated power from the transmitter is added up and focussed in some desired direction, cutting the radiation in other directions. A dipole is used in a beam antenna is called an element and a combination of such elements are called an array.
The simplest beam antenna has two elements. The element into which the power from the transmitter is fed is called the driven element. The second element placed close and parallel to it is called the reflector. RF power from the driven element is induced in the reflector by way of electro magnetic coupling, but it is reflected back and added up the power in the first element and radiated in the forward direction. There is not much power loss in the reflector and all the RF power it receives from the driven element is radiated back. A third element can also be added in the same manner to increase the radiation. This additional element is called director and it is placed in front of the driven element.
The length of the driven element is calculated as half of the wave length and the reflector is 5% longer and director is 5% shorter in length. The spacing between the driven element and the reflector is 0.15 wave length and between director and driven element is 0.1 to 0.2 wave length. The gain obtained from a two element beam antenna is 5 DB and three element antenna offers about 7 DB gain.
It should be noted that the construction of a beam antenna is a complicated job and some construction practice and workshop experience will be necessary. Since the beam antenna radiates all the energy only in the same direction to which it points, a rotator has to be used along with it, to rotate the antenna in all directions to make best use of its directional property.